Residents protest culture ouster as Omani artefacts dominate museum space

The removal of artefacts belonging to Lamu’s native communities from a local museum has sparked public outcry among residents, cultural enthusiasts, conservators, curators and archivists.

Artefacts from the Giriama, Pokomo and Orma tribes have been taken off display and replaced with exhibits showcasing Omani culture.

This change comes at a time when indigenous communities along the Coast are calling for the return of antiques sold abroad.

For the past two years, exhibitions at the Lamu Museum have been limited to the first floor due to the deteriorated condition of the ground floor. The lower level suffers from inadequate lighting and incomplete renovations, making it unfit for public exhibition.

Meanwhile, the first floor, now reserved for Omani heritage, is well-lit and airy, benefiting from natural light and a sea breeze. All local artefacts have been removed from this space.

Residents describe the current state as a clear neglect of local cultural heritage, accusing authorities of favouring foreign narratives and attempting to “Arabize” the history of the Lamu Archipelago.

Though Kenyan artefacts were meant to be displayed on the ground floor, the unfinished renovations have made it impossible to properly showcase them. The museum reopened early last year, with only the Omani-funded first floor fully operational.

The renovation project, worth Sh30 million, was financed by the National Records and Archive Authority (NRAA) of Oman. It was part of a cultural exchange initiative aimed at highlighting shared heritage between Kenya and Oman.

However, the inclusion of a large portrait of the Sultan of Oman next to Kenya’s presidential portrait at the entrance has further raised concerns.

Many residents view it as symbolic of growing foreign dominance over local heritage spaces.

Adding to the tension is the long-standing issue of two ceremonial siwa horns, one brass and one ivory, that were taken to Nairobi for an exhibition seven years ago.

Though they were returned, only casts of the original artefacts remain in Lamu, leading to frustration among locals.

The siwa, a pair of traditional whistle-blowing horns, is a highly valued cultural artefact in Sub-Saharan Africa, and its absence has sparked renewed calls for cultural restitution.

Cultural enthusiasts say the once-vibrant displays of the Bajuni, Boni, Pokomo, Orma, and Mijikenda communities have vanished. Notably, the popular Bwanaharusi exhibit, a traditional Swahili wedding showcase, is no longer on display.

Visitors to the revamped museum today find the Lamu replica of the mtepe dhow, a traditional boat built without nails, tucked away in a corner. In contrast, a large model of an Omani ship dominates the maritime gallery.

Currently, seven permanent Omani-themed exhibitions occupy the entire first floor of the building. These include: “Oman through the Ages,” “Oman Marine Heritage: The People and Community,” “Omani Maritime Heritage,” “Sultans of the Al Busaidi Dynasty in East Africa,” “Sultan Qaboos bin Said (1390-1441 AH/1970-2020 AD),” Modern Oman,” and “Oman Presence in East Africa.” 

The project began after a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) was signed between the Cabinet Secretary for Sports, Culture and the Arts, Dr Hassan Wario, and the Government of Oman. The agreement allowed Oman to establish a permanent cultural exhibition at the museum.

Athman Hussein, a recently retired assistant director at the National Museums of Kenya (NMK) in charge of the Coast region, said the project was intended to rehabilitate the entire building while showcasing both Kenyan and Omani culture.

“The project cost Sh30 million and the contractor was chosen by Oman,” he said. “It was agreed that NMK would exhibit on the ground floor while Oman took the first floor.”

However, Hussein confirmed that only the first floor was completed.

“Funds ran out before the ground floor could be refurbished. This has not been well received by Lamu residents, who feel the museum now gives preference to foreign culture.”

The project also involved training NMK staff and working collaboratively with Omani experts. Oman is also expected to rehabilitate the Siyu Heritage Site in Lamu East sub-county.

In 2021, curator Mohammed Mwenje said the Lamu Museum had not been renovated since the 1980s.

It had suffered extensive damage, prompting the need for structural repairs, ceiling replacements, and modernised exhibition space.

Now, locals want the Ministry of Heritage and the Arts to step in and complete the unfinished renovations so that Kenyan artefacts can once again be displayed and appreciated.

Walid Ahmed, co-founder of Save Lamu, expressed his frustration at the unfinished ground floor. “We feel there is a plot to erase Lamu’s heritage and identity from public memory. The preference for foreign culture amounts to neglect and must be addressed urgently,” he said.

He urged the national government to allocate funds not only to finish the museum but also to restore other heritage sites across the Coast.

Lawyer and Lamu resident Yusuf Aboubakar called on local MPs to lobby for funds to complete the project.

“This squarely falls under the national government. Our MPs must ensure NMK receives the necessary funding to safeguard our heritage,” he said.

The situation has sparked an online uproar, with many Kenyans questioning why local heritage is being sidelined in a space meant to preserve it.

Syombua Kibue asked, “Wasn’t it during the East African slave trade, under Omani rule, that our ancestors were kidnapped and sold to Arabia? How can those responsible now be allowed to brand our museums?”

Stephen Henighan added, “Even as a first-time tourist in Kenya, I was shocked by the heavy Omani presence at both the Lamu Museum and Fort Jesus in Mombasa.”

Ibn Battuta commented, “Long story short — Oman removed African artefacts and replaced them with their own.”

Angie Njagi wrote, “They erased our history and auctioned off our cultural platform to the highest bidder. Hate is not strong enough.”

Rita Biamah wondered, “Do we need to crowdfund to restore our culture?”

Njau Godfrey said the national government has failed local cultures. “But where is the county government in all this? Culture is a devolved function.”

Others, like Kim Mbali and Kellian King, warned of cultural colonisation and foreign influence.

Alvin Kahama lamented, “Kenya’s foreign policy is: come with money, and we’ll say yes to anything.”